Beginner Aquarium Plants

From the team at Byrkley Aquatics & Aquascaping, Burton on Trent — nearly 40 years of helping fishkeepers get it right.

There are plenty of plant guides online. Most of them give you a list of eight species, tell you they're easy, and leave you to it. What they don't tell you is why your stem plants went leggy after a fortnight, why your fish are nibbling the leaves, or why you ended up with more algae than you started with.

This guide is different. It's built on the conversations we have every day in our shop — the questions people ask, the mistakes they come back with, and the moments when a tank truly comes alive. Whether you're adding a few plants to an existing tank or planning your first proper aquascape, we want to help you get it right first time.

Before You Buy a Single Plant

The first thing we do when someone asks us about plants isn't point them towards a shelf. We ask questions.

What sort of tank do you have — tropical or coldwater? What size is it? How long has it been running? Have you kept plants before? What are you hoping to achieve — a few easy plants to brighten things up, or a full planted aquascape? And perhaps most importantly: how much maintenance are you happy to do?

That last question matters more than people expect. Some plants need trimming every couple of weeks to look their best. Others will sit happily on a piece of driftwood for years and ask almost nothing of you. Knowing which camp you're in before you buy anything will save you a great deal of frustration.

Budget is also worth thinking about honestly — not because we're judging what you spend, but because the wrong plant for the wrong setup is money wasted. A cheap bunch of stem plants that dies in a fortnight isn't a bargain. A slightly pricier Anubias that thrives for years with minimal care is genuinely good value.

Why Real Plants Make Such a Difference

Live plants aren't decoration with roots. They're actively working in your tank.

They compete with algae by consuming the same nutrients from the water. They oxygenate the water. They provide shelter, hiding spots, and enrichment for your fish. And they create the kind of natural, layered environment that fish — particularly smaller species — feel genuinely safe in.

Once you've experienced a properly planted tank, it's very hard to go back.

The Algae Myth — Let's Clear This Up

We hear it regularly: "I don't want plants because they'll cause algae."

This is the wrong way round. Plants don't cause algae — they help prevent it. Algae is caused by an imbalance in your tank: too much light, excess nutrients, poor water quality, or a combination of all three. Healthy, well-chosen plants actively compete with algae by consuming those same nutrients. A well-planted tank is generally a lower-algae tank. If you're already dealing with an algae problem, our guide on causes of algae and how to get it under control is a good place to start.

Understanding Plant Types — This Changes Everything

Before we get to specific recommendations, it's worth understanding the two broad groups of aquarium plants, because they have very different requirements.

Epiphytes are plants that draw nutrients from the water column rather than through their roots. Anubias, Java Fern, and Bucephalandra are all epiphytes. The easiest way to keep them is attached to wood, rock, or décor — this gives you flexibility to reposition them and means you don't need to worry about substrate at all. That said, they will grow in substrate provided the rhizome isn't buried too deeply. We have Anubias growing beautifully along the substrate in one of our own displays. Epiphytes tend to be slow-growing, low-maintenance, and very forgiving. They do well in lower light and will grow without CO2, though like most plants they'll do better with it. The important thing to understand is that epiphytes are slow growers — they don't consume nutrients quickly. If there's an imbalance of nutrients alongside CO2 in the tank, algae can take hold before the plants have chance to use those nutrients up. So while CO2 isn't harmful, it needs to be balanced correctly. For anyone who wants beautiful plants with minimal fuss, epiphytes are the place to start.

Rooting plants draw nutrients through their root systems and need to be planted in the substrate. Cryptocoryne, Vallisneria, Echinodorus (Amazon Sword), and Hygrophila all fall into this category. They generally benefit from a nutritious substrate or root tabs, and grow more vigorously with decent lighting.

Our Honest Take on CO2

You'll see a lot of debate about CO2 online. Here's the straightforward version.

For the epiphytes we recommend to most beginners — Anubias, Java Fern, Bucephalandra — CO2 will help them grow better, just as it does with most plants. However, because epiphytes are slow-growing, they don't consume nutrients quickly. If CO2 and nutrients are out of balance in the tank, algae can take hold before the plants have a chance to use those nutrients up. It's not that CO2 is bad for epiphytes — it's that it needs to be introduced as part of a balanced setup, not just added in isolation.

For rooting plants like Vallisneria, Cryptocoryne, and Echinodorus, CO2 isn't essential but will improve growth and colour. Good lighting and root fertiliser will often get you a long way without it.

For stem plants and more demanding species, CO2 makes a noticeable difference. But even here, you have options before committing to a full pressurised system. Liquid carbon is a good starting point — it's more useful for keeping algae in check than as a true fertiliser, but it does help. And if you have a smaller tank and want to try CO2 without a big outlay, disposable CO2 kits cost under £15 and will last 30 to 60 days depending on use. They make a real difference to plants like Monte Carlo that struggle without it.

The honest truth about plants is this: to get the very best from them, you need the right balance of light, water quality, and nutrients. The best equipment can be expensive, but there are options at every budget, and you can still create something genuinely beautiful with modest outlay — if you choose the right plants for what you have.

Aquarium Planting Soil

Substrate and Planting — Getting the Foundation Right

If you're only keeping epiphytes, the substrate in your tank barely matters for the plants — they're attached to wood and rock, not growing in the gravel at all. Fine gravel or sand is perfectly fine.

For rooting plants, substrate choice becomes more important. Plain gravel and sand will support growth initially, but plants will eventually need extra nutrition — root tabs pushed down near the root zone are the easiest solution, and make a visible difference to colour and growth rate. If you're starting from scratch and want to go further, aquarium planting soil gives your plants everything they need from the beginning. It can be used across the whole base, or placed in specific areas under a covering of sand or gravel. If you go this route, make sure the soil is fully covered — loose soil sitting on top of the sand is both messy and disruptive to the tank.

One practical tip: it's considerably easier to plant your plants with little or no water in the tank. A good pair of planting tweezers also makes a huge difference so much easier than trying to push roots into substrate with your fingers.

Our Recommended Plants for Beginners

These are the easy aquarium plants we genuinely believe in and regularly recommend to people starting out, all available in our easy to grow plants range. They all grow without CO2 or fertiliser as a baseline, though good light and some nutrients will bring out the best colours.

Anubias Barteri

One of our absolute favourites. Anubias Barteri has lovely big, broad leaves that are tough, slow-growing, and incredibly easy to keep. Attach it to a piece of wood or rock and it will sit there looking beautiful for years. The large leaves make it particularly good for Betta tanks — more on that below. It also creates a patch of shade on the tank floor that bottom-dwelling fish appreciate. For a deeper look at getting the best from this plant, read ourfull Anubias Barteri care guide.

Anubias Bonsai

A compact, small-leaved variety of Anubias that stays neat and tidy. We love attaching this to pebbles or small pieces of rock chipping and simply dropping it to the bottom of the tank — it grows happily in low light without needing to be planted at all. Brilliant in smaller tanks, and equally useful for filling gaps in larger aquascapes.

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Anubias Bonsai aquarium plant

Cryptocoryne

Crypts are exceptional value for money, especially when bought potted — you often get a generous clump that can be carefully separated into several individual plants. There's a wide range of varieties with different leaf shapes, textures, and colours, including a lovely pink variety. The one thing to be aware of is "crypt melt" — when introduced to a new tank, leaves sometimes deteriorate as the plant adjusts to its new conditions. This can look alarming but is entirely normal. Remove the affected leaves and wait. New, healthy growth follows quickly, and once established, Cryptocoryne are among the most reliable plants you can keep.

Hygrophila

If you want to fill out the back of a tank with lush, leafy growth, Hygrophila is our go-to recommendation. It grows tall, there are plenty of varieties to choose from with different colours and leaf shapes, and it's very easy to get going. The one thing to stay on top of is trimming — left unchecked, it will grow quite vigorously. But a regular cut back keeps it looking great and means you soon have cuttings to replant or share.

Other Plants Worth Knowing About

Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus) — a classic for good reason. Tough, tolerant of low light, attaches to wood and rock, and works in both tropical and cooler water tanks.

Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri) — incredibly versatile. Attach it to décor, let it spread across wood, or use it in the foreground. Loved by shrimp and fry.

Vallisneria — a fast-growing, grass-like plant that creates beautiful curtains at the back of the tank. Propagates via runners and is almost self-sufficient once established.

Bucephalandra — a slow-growing epiphyte with stunning metallic leaf colours. Increasingly popular and very rewarding.

Monte Carlo (Micranthemum tweediei) — the most achievable carpeting plant for beginners. Small, round leaves that spread across the foreground. Does better with some CO2 and good lighting, but more forgiving than most carpet species.

Floating plants — easy to grow and often overlooked. Excellent for reducing surface light intensity, absorbing nutrients, and providing natural cover near the surface.

Plants and Your Fish — Matching Them Properly

This is one of the most important conversations we have, and one most guides skip entirely.

Betta Fish

Betta fish absolutely love a planted tank. They're intelligent fish that get bored easily, and plants give them something to explore, rest on, and interact with. A tank full of life is a genuinely healthier environment for them.

Betta also have a specific need: because they breathe air from the surface, they need clear, easy access to the top of the tank. Large-leaved plants positioned reasonably close to the surface — like Anubias Barteri or Echinodorus Argentinensis — are ideal. Betta will rest on these broad leaves, especially longer-finned varieties who can find swimming tiring.

Soft, real plant leaves are also far kinder to Betta finnage than plastic or silk alternatives. Long, flowing fins are delicate, and sharp or rigid fake plants can cause real damage over time.

One more thing worth mentioning: Betta that are bored or stressed will sometimes nibble and damage their own fins. A well-planted tank with plenty of interest can genuinely help prevent this.

Don't forget floating plants for Betta tanks. Male Betta build bubble nests at the surface to breed, and floating plants give them something to anchor the nest to. Even if breeding isn't your aim, Betta enjoy exploring floating plants near the surface.

Nano Fish and Small Community Fish

Smaller fish feel much safer in a well-planted tank. Many nano species are naturally prey fish in the wild, and the ability to dart into cover when they feel threatened reduces their stress significantly. Fine-leaved plants like Micranthemum micranthemoides (pearl weed) are particularly good — they provide dense cover and are a favourite spawning site for many smaller species. Floating plants also offer hiding spots for baby livebearers.

Fish That Can Cause Problems for Plants

Some fish will eat or damage plants. It's important to know this before you plant a tank.

Mollies, swordtails, and platies are naturally vegetarian, but in our experience they don't usually bother most aquarium plants — particularly if they're getting a good, balanced diet. Harder, tougher-leaved plants are a safer bet with these fish.

Plecs are more of a concern. Bristlenose plecs are fairly common in planted tanks and usually fine, but there are exceptions. Bulldog plecs and clown plecs, however, frequently eat plants and we'd generally advise against keeping them in a planted tank. If you want an algae eater you can rely on in a planted setup, otocinclus are the one we'd always recommend without hesitation.

If you already have fish that are known plant-eaters and still want a planted tank, it's not necessarily impossible — but it does narrow your options. Tougher, less palatable plants (particularly epiphytes) give you the best chance.

The Mistakes We See Most Often

Buying stem plants because they're cheap. A budget bunch of stem plants can look great in the shop, but without regular trimming they quickly go leggy and sparse. If you don't want to be pruning every couple of weeks, epiphytes will serve you far better.

Thinking plants cause algae. They don't. See above.

Burying the rhizome too deeply. Anubias and Java Fern can be placed in substrate, but the rhizome needs to sit near the surface — not buried. If it's covered too deeply, it will rot. Attaching to wood or rock is the simplest way to avoid this entirely.

Panicking during crypt melt. When Cryptocoryne leaves deteriorate in a new tank, it looks like failure. It isn't. Remove the leaves and wait — the plant is adjusting, and it will come back.

Choosing plants based on pictures rather than care requirements. Always ask what the plant needs, not just what it looks like.

The Mistakes We See Most Often

Buying stem plants because they're cheap. A budget bunch of stem plants can look great in the shop, but without regular trimming they quickly go leggy and sparse. If you don't want to be pruning every couple of weeks, epiphytes will serve you far better.

Thinking plants cause algae. They don't. See above.

Burying the rhizome too deeply. Anubias and Java Fern can be placed in substrate, but the rhizome needs to sit near the surface — not buried. If it's covered too deeply, it will rot. Attaching to wood or rock is the simplest way to avoid this entirely.

Panicking during crypt melt. When Cryptocoryne leaves deteriorate in a new tank, it looks like failure. It isn't. Remove the leaves and wait — the plant is adjusting, and it will come back.

Choosing plants based on pictures rather than care requirements. Always ask what the plant needs, not just what it looks like.

From Our Workshops: Enjoy the Process

In our in-store workshops, we follow a simple order: choose the hardscape first, then add the substrate, then plant. But the most important thing we tell every beginner is this — you don't have to follow the rules.

Choose plants you like. Put them where you like. If something grows bigger than you expected at the front of the tank, it doesn't matter. If a plant needs a bit of time to settle in, give it time. Your fish will not judge your aquascape. And some of the most beautiful planted tanks we've seen started with someone who just had a go.

A Word From the Shop Floor

We see a lot of people with Betta fish come into the shop, that look sad and lethargic. Sometimes it's a water quality issue, but often it's a tank that's simply empty and unstimulating. Adding the right plants — particularly large-leaved ones with interesting textures and spots to rest — can genuinely transform a Betta. We've seen fish that looked half-alive come back to life once their tank had some proper planting and things to explore.

We also have a regular customer who attended one of our workshops and decided to fully plant their large tank afterwards. They come back regularly now — not with problems, but to tell us they've been trimming plants back because everything has grown so well. That's the outcome we're always hoping for.

What to Do Next

Ready to get started? Our beginner plants section in the webshop is stocked with the species mentioned in this guide, chosen specifically because they work for most setups and most fishkeepers.

We're also here in the shop at Byrkley Garden Centre in Rangemore, Burton on Trent, if you'd like to talk through your tank in person. We hold regular workshops throughout the year — a great way to get hands-on with planting and aquascaping in a relaxed, friendly environment.

A free downloadable beginner planted tank guide is also coming very soon — keep an eye on this page.

And if you have questions, just ask. That's what we're here for.