The Beginner's Guide to Planted Aquariums

If you've kept fish for a while and always wondered whether live plants were worth the effort, this guide to Planted Aquariums. is for you. We'll cover everything you need to get started what to plant, how to plant it, and what actually matters and what doesn't.

Brand new to fishkeeping altogether?

This guide assumes you've already got a tank up and running. If you're starting from scratch, head to our Beginners Guide first, then come back here when you're ready to plant up.

Why bother with live plants?

Honestly, once you've kept a planted tank you won't want to go back. The difference in how fish look and behave in a planted aquarium compared to a bare setup is remarkable. Fish are more active, less skittish, and the colours come out far better. You're giving them something closer to a natural environment, and it shows.

There are practical benefits too. Live plants absorb nitrates, compete with algae for nutrients, and help keep your water stable. They're not a replacement for good maintenance, but they do make the whole system work better.

And then there's the way a planted tank looks. Whether you're after a simple, natural feel or something more structured and designed, live plants give you something no decoration can.

Choosing your first plants

This is where most beginners go wrong, and it's usually down to price. Stem plants are cheap and easy to find, but they need regular trimming and decent conditions to stay looking good. Red plants are even more demanding. Which can be tricky when you are just starting out. 

Start with epiphytes instead. These are plants that grow on wood and rock rather than in the substrate — Anubias, Java Fern (Microsorum) and Bucephalandra are the three we point almost every beginner towards.

They're slow growing, undemanding, and will do well in a wide range of conditions. They don't need CO2, they're not fussy about substrate, and they'll tolerate lower light levels without complaining. Get these established first and you'll have a much better experience than diving straight into a heavily planted Dutch layout.

A quick note on planting them — don't bury the rhizome. That's the thick horizontal stem the leaves grow from. Tie or wedge it to a piece of wood or rock and let the roots attach naturally. 

What you need to get started

Substrate

If you're starting with epiphytes, the good news is substrate doesn't really matter. Sand or gravel is absolutely fine. These plants attach to wood and rock, not the substrate, so what's on the bottom is largely irrelevant to them.

If you decide later that you want to branch out into rooted plants like Cryptocoryne or Echinodorus, it's worth either adding localised fertiliser tablets pushed into the substrate near the roots, or switching to a soil-based substrate. But don't worry about that yet. Get the epiphytes established first.

Lighting

Epiphytes are genuinely low light plants, which is one of the reasons we recommend them. A standard aquarium LED will do the job. If anything, be cautious about too much light. Excess lighting with low plant mass is one of the most common causes of algae problems in new planted tanks.

If you move into Cryptocoryne or Echinodorus further down the line, better lighting will help, but it's not essential for those either. Good light encourages better growth and colour, but both will manage in more modest conditions.

For now, if your tank has a decent LED hood, you're fine. Don't feel pressured to upgrade before you've even planted anything.

CO2

Injecting CO2 into your tank accelerates plant growth, which in turn helps keep algae under control. It's something a lot of planted tank keepers use, but it's not where you need to start.

There are options at every budget — basic systems for smaller tanks from around £15, up to more advanced setups in the £150 to £250 range. For a beginner getting to grips with their first plants, it's an expense you can hold off on. Get the plants established, get comfortable with the basics, then revisit it if you want to take things further.

We've got a separate guide on CO2 if you want to explore the options — [link to CO2 article when live].

Fertilisers

This is one area where we would encourage you to get into good habits early. A basic liquid fertiliser, dosed regularly, will benefit your epiphytes even if the difference isn't immediately obvious. It supports steady growth, and healthy fast-growing plants are one of your best defences against algae.

When you move into Echinodorus or Cryptocoryne, fertilisers become even more worthwhile, they'll improve both growth rate and leaf colour noticeably.

You don't need anything complicated. A quality all-in-one liquid fertiliser dosed once a week is plenty to start with.

Planting and hardscape

Epiphytes don't go in the substrate — they're attached to wood or rock and left to root naturally over time. Getting them fixed in place is simpler than it sounds.

Forget thread. Cotton rots, and nylon line is fiddly to tie securely around a plant. We use aquarium glue, which does the job quickly and holds well. If you want a more natural finish, hardscape compounds let you blend the attachment point into the wood or rock so it's less visible once everything's settled.

Choosing your wood and rock comes down to personal taste more than anything else. There's a huge variety out there and a lot of it is just finding what appeals to you visually. The one thing we would say is to be careful with rock if you're a beginner. Some types will leach calcium and raise your water hardness and pH over time, which creates more variables to manage when you're still getting to grips with water parameters. Stick to inert rock, lava rock, dragon stone and slate are generally safe choices, and you'll keep things simpler.

Ongoing care

A regular water change routine is important for your fish, but it benefits your plants too. Minerals get depleted over time and a weekly or fortnightly change replenishes them naturally. It's one of those habits that makes everything in the tank work better.

While you're doing your water changes, take a few minutes to remove any debris and dying leaves. Organic matter left to break down in the tank is a common cause of water quality problems and algae outbreaks — it's worth staying on top of it rather than letting it build up.

One thing worth being honest about: sometimes a plant just doesn't thrive. It could be the water, the light, the position in the tank — not everything works in every setup. If a plant is consistently struggling despite your best efforts, don't be afraid to replace it with something else. It's not a failure, it's just part of learning what works in your particular tank.

What next? 

Hopefully this gives you a solid starting point. Planted tanks can go as deep as you want them to — there's always something new to try — but get the basics right first and you'll enjoy the process a lot more.

If you'd rather learn in person, we run monthly workshops from late August through to March, each one covering a different theme. Most are free and open to all, though some sessions need to be booked in advance. They're a great way to get hands-on and ask questions. Keep an eye on our events page for upcoming dates.

And if you want everything in this guide in one place, download our free planted tank starter guide below. It covers all the essentials in a format you can save and come back to.

[Insert ebook download/email signup here]

Any questions, feel free to get in touch. We're always happy to talk plants.

FAQ

Do planted aquarium plants need CO2?

Not all of them. Epiphytes like Anubias, Java Fern and Bucephalandra will do perfectly well without it. CO2 injection promotes faster growth and helps keep algae in check, but it's not something you need to invest in straight away. When you're ready to explore it, there are options from around £15 for a basic system up to £150 to £250 for a more advanced setup. [Link to CO2 guide]

Do I need a special substrate for planted aquarium plants?

If you're starting with epiphytes, no. Sand or gravel is fine because these plants attach to wood and rock rather than rooting in the substrate. If you move into plants like Cryptocoryne or Echinodorus, a soil-based substrate or localised fertiliser tablets pushed in near the roots will help, but that's something to consider when you're ready to take things further.

How often should I fertilise?

A liquid fertiliser dosed once or twice a week is a good habit to get into from the start. It supports steady growth, helps with leaf colour and healthy plants are one of your best defences against algae.

Why are my aquarium plants dying?

The most common reasons are damage during transit or planting, or the plant not adapting to your water chemistry. Not every plant works in every tank, and sometimes despite doing everything right a particular plant just won't settle. If that happens, try something else rather than persisting with something that's clearly struggling.

Can I keep live plants with any fish?

Most fish are absolutely fine with live plants. Some species, certain plecs in particular, will eat or damage softer leaved plants. Epiphytes are a safer choice as their leaves tend to be thicker and waxier, making them far less appealing to fish that might otherwise nibble.

How do I attach plants to wood and rock?

Aquarium glue is the easiest and most reliable method. Thread works in theory but cotton rots and nylon line is fiddly to tie securely. Once the plant is glued in place, hardscape compounds can be used to blend the attachment point in for a more natural finish.